Sintered bearings behave much like a sponge by storing oil, and then releasing whenever it is needed. This happens when the joint starts to spin and causes heat. Heat causes the bearing to release oil and lubricate the running joint. A neat idea - until it is a quater of a centuary old!
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The assembly consists of two sleeve bearings inserted at both ends of a cast metal holer. First the bearing is checked visually and everything is in good shape. Swabbing with cotton buds and alcohol does not show any dirty lubricant. The assembly is then inserted into a oven. Heat is then slowly and carefully applied to the joint to ensure that expansion is as linear as possible.
Our oven has a grill function will allows the heat to circulate. This ensures that the heat is even at all parts of the oven - useful!
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The bearing is then slowly cooled down, then heated up again. This causes a small quantity of brown oil to be collected on the foil.
On the right, you can see the some of the dirty oil on a kitchen towel. (Thanks Wife for the oven and towel!)
Next the assembly is immersed in solvent (like common paint thinner in an open ceramic or glass bowl) and then set back into the over at a lower temperature of about 130~150 degrees Celsius.
This has to be done in a well ventilated area because we are dealing with heat and solvent. The bowl is then taken out and let to cool in outside air. Because the assembly is immersed, it will take some time to cool down. The assembly is then set back into the over for more heating. Doing this about twice turns the clear solvent into a brownish mixture which contains more used oil.
I will have to find out the best oil with the correct number for lubricating this grade of sintered bearings. Too viscous and not enough will enter the bearing. Too runny and the bearing will not soak and hold the oil.
This (the blog in general) has got to be one of the most fascinating things I have ever followed. Cheers to your persistence, and I am bowled over by your know-how. I just gave a cranky 700 to Willy Hermann; I don't have the knowledge to fix it myself or the money to have someone else do it - and figured someone else could benefit from the parts.
ReplyDeleteBest, Jim
Thanks Jim. I never got any training on these decks, but I have been experienced on both mechanical and eletronics hence can handle both. Luckily these decks are not too complicated!
ReplyDeleteHoly cow! - What a hell job of a tape deck repair. I thought the shattered dual sided PCBs in my 2 Casio KX-101 (rare boombox with music keyboard) were bad. To rewire this jigsaw puzzle took a lot of work.
ReplyDeleteSee here:
http://weltenschule.de/TableHooters/Casio_KX-101.html
Be very careful with solvents and heat - the vapours can eat a fist size hole into the brain and tend to explode when heated.
Thanks for this tip! it was very useful for repairing a Binson echorec motor, whose bearing was sticky. I used a hot air gun... how impressive to see the black oil surfacing the metal
ReplyDelete